Bolivia

We spent a pleasant (but cold) morning visiting the Tiahuanaco (in Aymara language) or Tiwanako (in Quechua speak) archaeological site, near La Paz. This contains the remains of pre-inca civilisations. Although in the West, people are well aware of the Inca civilisation, less is known about the Tiahuanaco culture, which lasted for full 3 thousand years before the Inca's came along, second only in length to the Egyptians. This site has been used for hundreds of years as a local quarry, and not much of the city remains, however, excavations are still continuing. Ruins include various temples and astronomical buildings, built in mathematical alignment to the sun and stars (such as the sun gate). One of the most important monuments has been housed in the on-site museum for only six years , previously the 20 tonne, 8 metre, lump of red sandstone was situated outside La Paz's football stadium (it had been moved there after the monument was discovered in the 1930's). It was freqeuently bombarded by bottles when angry, losing fans left the stadium; this was when the local police weren't using it for target practice! Today, it is missing half its face and nose.

The Sun Gate. The iconography at the top depicts an astronomical calendar. The lower vertical columns would have been covered in gold and silver plate.

This is one of a 175 stone heads that adorn the walls of the underground temple. It is reputed that the faces represent all of the races of the world, including aliens! Another theory is that they represent faces in differing states of heath, as the temple was thought to be a place where people came to be healed.

We also saw a traditional Aymara wedding ceremony taking place, on this sacred site (special permission is required to get wed here). They were accompanied by pan pipe musicians (we felt like we were living through a "fast show" sketch!) and drummers. We watched them as they prepared offerings to Pachamama. These include coco leaves, minature symbols of good fortune, including llama foetuses (ugh!) which they burn in a ritual.

The mother in law. This is traditional Bolivian woman dress. We have heard that the hat is placed straight on the head to signify that a woman is married, and if she is available, the hat is tilted to one side. Lisa wonders how many married women, at the sight of a fit Bolivian man, sneekily cocks her hat (much easier than removing the wedding ring).

The wedding band

Fast Show off!

Llama foetuses for sale in the witches market, La Paz

Our initial concern regarding the salt flat tour was that we were going to be stuck in a four by four for three days with four soap dodging, bongo playing hippies in happy pants, as they were waiting in the same vicinity as us. We needn't have worried, as they got into another vehicle, and we had the pleasurable company of a Bolivian couple (from La Paz) and a mum and daughter from Rosario, Argentina. All acted as our translators for the 3 day tour, as our guide wasn't bilingual.

The first day we visited the train cemetry, and the salt flats themselves.

The train cemetry. This occured because of the revolution in 1952, after the workers abandoned the railways.

Andyb in his silly hat at the Salt Flats

Lisab in her silly hat at the Salt Flats

At this time of year (rainy season), the salar is covered in a few inches of water. This gives the effect that (from a distance) the vehicles are travelling in the sky, and appears very surreal. We were unable to visit Fish Island (we were told the water was too deep there) and would like to visit the Salar again in dry season, for the contrast. Despite this, we saw some amazing sights, and witnessed some of the most dramatic scenery we've seen in South America.

One of the lakes

One of the rare James flamegoes that we spotted

Our transport for the 3 day tour

We visited the volcanic mud pools, which bubble away at very high temperatures. We thought they were fantastic, but we haven't visited Iceland (yet!)

On the last day we visited the "Daliesque" desert. Apparently, he camped nearby for about 3 months; this view testifies to how the landscape influenced his paintings.

Laguna Colorado.

This is one of the Llama's we saw during the trip, complete with carnival ribbons. The farmers dress up their livestock for the duration of carnival!

Bolivian transport seems to turn into chaos around carnival time. After arriving in the border town of Villazon, it was impossible to get on to the train as planned, so we had to settle for a bone shaker bus ride. Andrew is thinking of studying the average life expectancy of Bolivian bus passengers compared to Bolivians who use other forms of transport! Part of the problem appears to be that the driver fails to slow down at appropriate times, choosing instead to us the horn as a break. During our trip (we sat on the middle back seats of the bus - with families at our feet in the aisle) we witnessed a collapsed bridge, so the bus had to drive down a banking and through the river. This was done with a bus load of passengers - including us. We also saw a bus that was hanging precariously on to the road, half tipped over. The passengers managed to hoist it back on to the road with ropes. We later heard, that because buses fill up so quickly, and because it is often their only means of transport available, that aisle tickets are sold (for the same price as seats) and when these are all gone, Bolivians have been known to travel in the luggage hold!! We finally arrived in Oruro at midnight, and felt truly baptised into the world of Bolivian buses.

We loved throwing water bombs and spraying foam at unsuspecting kids in Oruro, for 3 days. This is not illegal, infact it is actively encouraged during carnival! Lisa even went to spray a child, but (out of character) upon realising it was crying, turned away. However, the mother insisted that the child was sprayed - so she obliged. It was more fun having water fights with the children because the adults took it too seriously. We met "competetive dad" with whom we had a full on water fight. Later, a friend who we were with, Neil, was unharmed, minding his own business, when "competitive dad" ambushed him with the rest of his family!

Neil comes off worse

When Lisa wasn't making children cry, we sat in the seats and watched the colourful procession go by. On the Saturday, the Diablada ceremony took place. This pays tribute to the patroness of miners and Pachamama (earth mother). The Diablada was originally performed by the indigenous miners, but now a number of guilds take part in the procession, from all over Bolivia. This festival is known for it's imaginative costumes, and we certainly saw some sights. Not least, the drunken band players, who stagger on through the procession, playing out of tune. This happens as early as eleven in the morning.

Carnival takes it's toll!

Less fun was the hotel that we stayed in, although we couldn't complain - we only paid $50 each, for the 3 nights of carnival. Lisa said she was going to have t-shirts made up "we survived Hotel America", Neil said "if Carlsberg made hotels...."

Fancy a shower?