The slow train to Bangkok

The title "the slow train to Bangkok" is an understatement. It took us 2 nights and 2 days to reach our destination from Kuala Lumpur - but it was a lovely way to travel. First, we got an overnight train to Butterworth in Malaysia. This was a very civilised experience. As we set off, a nice little man came round to take our dinner order (we were only in the 2nd class sleeper) Then, after feeding us, they turned our seats into beds (complete with proper pillows and sheets). They stopped short of tucking us in for the night, and Lisab was in her bed before Andyb could say "night, night, dear".

The next morning, we were woken bright and early (by the nice little man), so we didn't miss our stop. As Butterworth is not all that, we decided to catch the ferry over to spend the morning in Georgetown, Penang, as our onward train to Bangkok didn't leave until 14:30. Georgetown was pleasant enough, but we were disappointed that Khoo Kongsi (a traditional Chinese Clan house) was closed on Sundays (until further notice - just our luck!) We did go to Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, which was 2nd on the "to do list". This was built by a Cantonese businessman who was quite smart when it came to trading with the British. It was a nice enough renovated house, but best of all was the VERY animated guide who showed us around; she was rather like a headmistress keeping her unruly brats in check.

The second (overnight) train was just as much fun as the first - though on the second day we were several hours late, and they only thought to feed us breakfast. We realised that it was a slow train, when we saw several people sauntering past the carriage window, as we (even more slowly) trundled up the track. Still, we whiled away the hours watching the camp Thai "Frank Spencer lookalikee" waiter, who seemed to take a shine to Andyb. This was because he was in his element, serving Andrew beer (he appeared to love waiting on people - just as well given his choice of career).

We finally arrived in Bangkok, and liked our first impressions. The transport system is fabulous - with the underground and skytrains. We can't imagine what it would have been like trying to travel around Bangkok before they arrived. We heard the underground had only been open around 12 months. We spent many an hour, travelling too and from the dentist (in Siam Square) on the Skytrain. We don't usually have a masochistic streak, but dental work here is much cheaper (and just as good) as England.

We did have time to fit in the Grand Palace (amongst the tooth extraction/filling commitments). This is classed as the holiest site in the country. It also houses the Emerald Buddah - which is surprisingly small - but is the most sacred buddah image in the country. He was dressed in his rainy season costume when we saw him (his others being cool season and hot season costumes). Some of the complex, which dates back to 1785, was closed due to the King's sister lying in state (she's been there for nearly a year now, so it's almost time for her funeral). The Thai's seem to hold a genuine affection for the Royal family, particularly for the King. Some even wear yellow (the King's colour) on a Monday (the day of his birth). They also stand up in the cinema, to show respect for the monarchy, when footage of the king's life is shown; this happens just before the main feature film starts. We can't imagine the British standing up for Lizzie.

Grand Palace

Guardians watching over the Grand Palace

Another guardian

We spent an afternoon on happy pant road (or Khao San Road as it's formally known). This was FULL of backpackers (of the clown pant and tooth pick in beard variety). We had quite a jolly time having a few beers and watching the sites from a roadside bar. It is a backpackers haven, full of hostels, and although we enjoyed it for a few hours, we were very glad we were staying in the quieter district of Sukhumvit.

Happy Pant Road

Overall, we didn't do that much in Bangkok (though we stayed for a week). However, we found that even though it's a busy place, it's not too hectic, and it's a great place to sort out your teeth and Chinese visa!