Tiahuanaco

We spent a pleasant (but cold) morning visiting the Tiahuanaco (in Aymara language) or Tiwanako (in Quechua speak) archaeological site, near La Paz. This contains the remains of pre-inca civilisations. Although in the West, people are well aware of the Inca civilisation, less is known about the Tiahuanaco culture, which lasted for full 3 thousand years before the Inca's came along, second only in length to the Egyptians. This site has been used for hundreds of years as a local quarry, and not much of the city remains, however, excavations are still continuing. Ruins include various temples and astronomical buildings, built in mathematical alignment to the sun and stars (such as the sun gate). One of the most important monuments has been housed in the on-site museum for only six years , previously the 20 tonne, 8 metre, lump of red sandstone was situated outside La Paz's football stadium (it had been moved there after the monument was discovered in the 1930's). It was freqeuently bombarded by bottles when angry, losing fans left the stadium; this was when the local police weren't using it for target practice! Today, it is missing half its face and nose.

The Sun Gate. The iconography at the top depicts an astronomical calendar. The lower vertical columns would have been covered in gold and silver plate.

This is one of a 175 stone heads that adorn the walls of the underground temple. It is reputed that the faces represent all of the races of the world, including aliens! Another theory is that they represent faces in differing states of heath, as the temple was thought to be a place where people came to be healed.

We also saw a traditional Aymara wedding ceremony taking place, on this sacred site (special permission is required to get wed here). They were accompanied by pan pipe musicians (we felt like we were living through a "fast show" sketch!) and drummers. We watched them as they prepared offerings to Pachamama. These include coco leaves, minature symbols of good fortune, including llama foetuses (ugh!) which they burn in a ritual.

The mother in law. This is traditional Bolivian woman dress. We have heard that the hat is placed straight on the head to signify that a woman is married, and if she is available, the hat is tilted to one side. Lisa wonders how many married women, at the sight of a fit Bolivian man, sneekily cocks her hat (much easier than removing the wedding ring).

The wedding band

Fast Show off!

Llama foetuses for sale in the witches market, La Paz