Torres del Paine

We spent 6 days, 5 nights trekking the "W" circuit in Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. Lisab was allocated the job of "catering manager" and following advice from the people at Erratic Rock Hostel in Natales (free talk every day aprox 3pm - very good for inexperienced trekkers) decided to ration the food into daily portions. Poor Andyb's face literally sunk as he was told "no" the lunch packs were neither (a) just for him or (b) a joke. Andyb oversaw proceedings as "project manager" (this role mainly involved carrying a heavier backpack).

Catering Manager guarding the food (on her backside as usual)

Who's eaten my porridge? (Andrew always managed to lift the pan just high enough, out of Lisa's reach, to ensure he got his fairer share of the breakfast ration).

The weather is notorious for providing 4 seasons IN A DAY, but during our time in the park we experienced a mainly dry (if very windy) climate. We chose to spend an extra day trekking to see the southern icefield. Unfortunately, a sign told us that the passage was closed due to a landslide and being sensible, conformist types, we proceeded no further. Later we discovered that the signs were left over from winter and to "ignore" them. Overall however, the park is well organised, with clear paths and good camping facilities.

Although we only got to see the tip of the southern icefield, our extra day's hike awarded us great views of Glacier Grey.

Close up of the glacier.

View from Valle Frances

On the last day we awoke early to climb the mountain to see the famous towers (this is becoming something of a habit). Due to a flurry of snow, we only got to view an outline of the towers, though we were still close enough to witness the imposing nature of these great lumps of granite. It was also a very pretty sight to see the freshly fallen snow on the surrounding trees and lower mountains.

The 3 towers

At the end of the trek, some people who we'd met were checking each others' backpacks for weight. Even the guanaco laughed at Lisab's light pack. She insists this was due to her expert provision rationing, that ensured no food was left after 6 days - severely lightening her load (and nothing to do with her husband being used as a pack horse).

Following this few days hard slog we rewarded ourselves with a relaxing cruise (read bog standard ferry) through the Chilean fjords from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt on the Navimag. We may have seen lots of wildlife were it not for the continuous rain that prevented us from staying out on deck for more than 3 minutes at a time. One highlight of the trip was getting off the ship at Puerto Eden, a tiny fishing village which houses only aproximately 200 people. It was also a good way to unwind after carrying our house and all supplies on our backs for the best part of a week.

Puerto Eden